The Three Capes Track

It was the day before Christmas, or as close as a work day can get to the holiday break.

A friend approached me and said, "Take a moment to consider this incredible hiking adventure in Tasmania called the Three Capes. It's a 4-day journey spanning 46 kilometers, where it's just you and a backpack filled with everything you need, traversing the breathtaking cliffs along the South shores of Tasmania." What a captivating idea! Intrigued, I visited the Three Capes website, and I was instantly enchanted by the majestic landscape it showcased. Their website can be found at www.threecapestrack.com.au. The heading on their page read...

Experience

You, a pack, and 46 kilometres of cliff-hugging wildness in Australia's far south-east. The next stop is Antarctica. Tasmania's Three Capes Track is not about getting from point A to point B. It’s about the journey. Few places on Earth remain that feel so remote, so raw, so removed from the ordinary.

What more could one ask for as a photographer or an outdoor enthusiast? So, when I returned to work in the new year, I approached my colleague and exclaimed, "Let's make this happen!" Over lunch, we promptly booked our tickets to embark on this unparalleled wilderness adventure. And thus began the search for accommodations, Airbnbs, flights, transportation, and extensive Google searches on the must-visit places in Hobart. Two months swiftly passed as we secured our accommodations, booked our flights, and arranged for a rental car.

However, all the planning up until now was merely a pebble dropped into the ocean compared to the research we must undertake next: how to survive, what to wear, and how to carry all our necessities. Let the games begin...

Weight was a significant concern for me, considering I had over 40 kilograms of camera equipment. While I didn't need all of it at once, certain items were essential for my wedding shoots, landscapes, macros, and videos. Ultimately, I decided to bring my landscape equipment and a GoPro, which brought the weight down to approximately 10 kilograms. However, when you factor in a sleeping bag, warm clothes, four days' worth of food with eating utensils, a minimum of 2 liters of water per day, raincoats, toiletries, towels, personal items, and even a rubbish bag (since you must carry out what you bring in), the weight quickly adds up. Consequently, my backpack ended up weighing around 20 kilograms, while my walking buddy was fortunate enough to only carry 10 kilograms.

For a comprehensive checklist for any hiking experience, here is the Three Capes Essential list...Click Here

But there's one thing that the list doesn't mention: a beverage, your liquid gold, an alcohol icebreaker for quenching your thirst. Some people on the track brought cases of wine, while others carried bottles of their preferred wine. However, the golden choice for many was a flask. As for us, we ventured with a couple of cans of coke, as there was nothing quite like arriving at the next cabin, taking off your backpack, kicking off your shoes, and pouring a smooth sip of your favorite drink into a cup. Just sitting down, watching the sunset, it was a well-deserved reward for a day's effort.

The time had finally arrived after months of packing, organizing, finding power chargers, meal planning, equipment testing, and endless preparations. It was 5:30 am on April 22, 2017, when my alarm rudely disrupted our sleep. Looking like zombies with hardly any rest, we set off to board the plane from Brisbane, with a stopover in Melbourne before finally reaching Hobart. By the time we arrived at Hobart around 4 pm, we had traveled over 2000 kilometers from Brisbane. The weather had drastically changed, dropping from 22 degrees Celsius to 8-10 degrees during the day. It wasn't just a single-jumper weather; we needed a minimum of two layers and a beanie for the chilly nights.

Navigating through the heart of Hobart's CBD, we easily found our hotel. Booking a bus from the airport proved to be a convenient option, as they dropped us off at major hotels for a return fare of $35.00, ensuring stress-free travel.

We unpacked our bags only to repack them for the hiking journey. Then, around 9 pm, the rain started, adding to our restlessness. We hoped for the rain to subside, fingers crossed, but as we knew, predicting good Tasmanian weather was a challenge...

Day 1: Leave it all Behind..

Good morning, Tasmania! What a perfect start to the day. The crisp, fresh air fills our lungs as we stroll down Constitution Dock, backpacks ready and food packed. Nerves and excitement intertwine as we board the bus at 7:45 am, embarking on our journey to Port Arthur. Along the way, we make a stop at the Eaglehawk Neck lookout, where the drivers claim there's one of the best coffee vans around. We indulge in some coffee, stretch our legs, and admire the breathtaking view of the terrain we'll be trekking for the next four days. After a 40-minute break, reenergized with caffeine and a snack, we head to the Port Arthur historical site, walking around and recreating some photos from my previous visit when I was three years old. We explore the site while awaiting the boat that will take us to the Cape's track. You can find more information about the Port Arthur historic site at http://portarthur.org.au.

At 11 am, we hear the captain's voice calling out our names, announcing our arrival. We step aboard the boat and put on the massive, bright red waterproof coats that resemble oversized onesies. From the water, we marvel at the ancient cliffs, some of which are over 80 million years old—truly awe-inspiring. After an hour-long cruise, the boat docks at a little beach cove named "Denmans Cove." There's a minor hiccup with a rope tangled in the propeller, delaying us in the bay for a while, but eventually, we make it ashore. The drawbridge drops, and as we step onto the sandy ground, we feel grounded and determined. This is it—the beginning of our adventure with no turning back. If you've forgotten anything, it's four days away. And then it hits me—there's no reception here. It's truly time to disconnect now. If you're not a Telstra customer, you get a break from civilization—no communication, no distractions. Just you and the wilderness. However, I discovered some secret spots that not even the rangers knew about. Here's a tip: switch your phone to airplane mode, and the battery will last twice as long since it's not constantly searching for a signal. You can still capture photos, knowing you'll have power by the end of the day.

The first night's cabin is just a short 4-kilometer walk away. It's a perfect opportunity to ensure our shoes feel comfortable, the backpack is properly positioned, and we have a breathtaking view of the historical Port Arthur site. Upon arriving at our cabin, we are greeted by Katelin, the ranger in charge of the cabin called the Surveyors. We drop our backpacks, and Katelin gives us a tour, showing us where we'll be sleeping, how the kitchen works, the USB charging station, and sharing some information about the place. Don't worry; I didn't forget to ask about the showers—there aren't any. Once we settle in, we unfold our deck chairs and relax, watching the clouds drift by while taking in the stunning panoramic views of Cape Raoul. The sense of adventure envelops us, and the evening only gets better as the clear, star-studded Milky Way shines above, providing the perfect backdrop for counting shooting stars...

Day 2: Colour and Contrast..

It's early, but not as early as when you were stargazing at the Milky Way. The dew is melting on the leaves as you prepare a hot breakfast and a warm cup of coffee. You strategize how to repack your backpack for the day, ensuring your cameras are ready for action. With walking sticks in hand and water bottles by your side, you set off on an 11km track alongside Cape Raoul, venturing in and out of eucalypt forests.

I must mention something I forgot earlier—the book provided at Port Arthur. Despite its weight, it's worth carrying as it shares stories behind the seats along the path. Trekking isn't just about getting from point A to point B; it's about immersing yourself in the journey. Take your time, appreciate the views, read the stories, and feel the thrill of being on top of the world. The track offers stunning vistas and jaw-dropping cliffs, reminding you of the beauty this land holds. Look ahead to the unknown and marvel at how far you've come. Around three hours in, you reach a place called Jurassic Crack, where, surprisingly, there's reception if your phone isn't on flight mode. It's a moment of joy and laughter, connecting with the outside world amidst ancient stone.

After enjoying the brief technological interlude, you continue your adventure through hills and plains, surrounded by mountains, blue water, and the Tasman Ocean. There's no one in sight, just you and the wonders of flora and fauna. The group of 45 people is spread out over 11 kilometers, providing the perfect sense of solitude. With your backs aching and legs fatigued from hours of hiking, you come across a glimpse of a building—Munro Cabin. With a sense of relief and excitement, you drop your bags in the room. The rumor of a hot shower sends you in search of it, and you join others in celebrating the refreshing water. After a nice wash, you retreat to your room with a scotch and coke, savoring the sunset view. The fog dances on the mountains, waves crash below, and seals play in the water. These cabins, nestled in the woods, offer cozy comfort with bunk beds, thick mattresses, and large windows that allow you to witness the changing light outside.

Day 3: Take you Breath way..

On ANZAC day, there was no sleeping in. The faint smell in the air drew everyone out of their beds, and Ranger Nick surprised us with homemade ANZAC biscuits. The bittersweet taste and crisp texture made the morning even more special.

After enjoying our biscuits, warm oatmeal breakfast, and hot coffee, it was time to conquer the Blades. Today's trek covered 17 kilometers, but the good news was that we could leave our heavy packs at the cabin and only carry a day pack with lunch, water, and cameras. As we walked through gullies and dense fog, the landscape became mysterious and enchanting. We followed a well-made wooden footpath, occasionally pausing to appreciate the limited views that peeked through the fog. For four hours, we walked in the midst of dense fog, where the wind could be heard but not felt. It was disorienting, and I started to worry that I was carrying all this camera equipment only to capture photos of fog.

By day three of our trek, we had encountered some wonderful people. John was up ahead, engaged in conversation with a couple, while I stopped to capture a shot of the fog and a cliff in the background. As I stepped out from a thick foggy area, they greeted me and commented on the less-than-ideal view. With smiles on their faces, I climbed five steps, and my jaw dropped at the sight before me. Clear blue skies, a magnificent view of the cliffs descending 400 meters straight down to the sea, the Tasman Island lighthouse a few kilometers away, and the proud presence of the Blade in the distance. This was the sight we had longed for. Cameras were quickly pulled out, tripods were set up, and the symphony of crashing waves and soaring birds filled the air. It's impossible to truly describe the feeling of walking the track, witnessing the vastness of the ocean meeting the horizon, and feeling the sun's rays on your face in just a shirt despite the 4-degree temperature. Your mind becomes empty as you walk for the next few kilometers, taking in the endless views.

We made it to the top of the Blade, standing on the cliff edge with a 500-meter drop to the waters below. The width of the Blade was only half our body length, but we stood there for minutes, gazing at the Tasman Island lighthouse and watching the seals play in their natural spa bath on the rock formation. Rolling hills extended behind us as clouds gracefully danced across their summits. I spent a good 30 minutes capturing photos, watching the blue waves crash against the cliff walls, and sending videos back home while enjoying the unexpected reception. But alas, good things must come to an end. I had to continue on to the next cabin, Retakunna, which was still 8 kilometers away, and it was already 2 PM in the afternoon.

Day 4: Up, over, Out and Back..

Ranger Jason welcomed us warmly when we arrived, weary from the 17-kilometer trek, just moments before witnessing the best sunset of the trip. The cloudless night that followed allowed us to capture breathtaking photos of the Milky Way. However, the morning greeted us with pouring rain, leaving us cold and wet even before breakfast. Undeterred, we ventured up the path to the moss-filled rainforest of the Three Capes. We ascended 700 meters to get one last look at the distance we had already trekked. I began counting the stairs, and John jokingly thanked me for letting him know we had already climbed six stairs. I replied, "Glad I could help. Only 4,678 thousand more to go today." It was indeed a day of stairs—up, over, down, and around the cape—through moss gardens, fern gullies, wild forests, cliff escapes, and rocky slopes, all amidst pouring rain, winds, and hail. But we pressed on, stopping only to admire the vastness of the forests and catch fleeting glimpses of the wilderness before rain patches obscured our view. After four hours, we reached Cape Hauy, the final detour of our trek. We dropped our bags, catching a glimpse of Fortescue Bays, our meeting point for the bus back to Port Arthur. Braving the deep, heavy rain and hail, we ventured out to the cape and returned. Two hours later, we retrieved our bags, had lunch to lighten our loads, and with smiles on our faces, continued our hike with only one more hour to go. As we hiked through the bush, we encountered new people walking the track towards us—families, couples, and friends enjoying a day's walk out to the cape. We knew we were close to the end. A few more stairs followed the last few stairs, and after the next set of stairs, we were greeted by three large man-made seashells with a sign that read, "Welcome Three Capes Walkers." We had arrived. It was time for a photo op—hands raised in the air, screams of accomplishment, goosebumps covering our bodies. The adrenaline kicked in, and the joy of our mission made every sore body, tiredness, blisters, and the smell of unwashed bodies worth it. We made our way to the bay, dropped our bags, and waited for the bus. Before us lay a sandy white beach, and I couldn't contain myself. Despite the 4-degree temperature, the sun was shining, and we had conquered the capes. It was time for a victorious swim. Some walkers laughed, thinking we were crazy, but a few volunteers decided to join in the plunge. What a fantastic ending to an incredible journey. We did it.

The Three Capes Walk was worth every bit of our sore bodies, aching bones, tiredness, and blisters. What an adventure, what a story to relive. But now it was time to return to Port Arthur for a hot meal and a warm drink.

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